Don’t forget Jevon’s paradox: because LED bulbs use less electricity, people buy more lights and put them in places that serve little purpose, using them in less efficient ways because it doesn’t cost them any more than what they were paying before. Two systems in series: System Reliability = Ra*Rb, Two systems in parallel: System Reliability = 1-(1-Ra)*(1-Rb). It’s totally possible you could salvage a few more years out of a bulb, but it’s also possible this isn’t really worth it, as the author points out. It worked for a while…. 's are the longest lasting bulbs (most last 60,000 or 100,000 hours), but are not 'True bulbs' in a sense that they are not made of glass"- JasonIqbal 00:00, 16 July 2007 (UTC) I’ve had many LED bulbs fail in days/weeks where others last years. Want to know the difference between a computer CPU with a heat sync and one without? The room is dimmer, except directly underneath the bulb. Brighter LED bulbs with a greater lumen power are particularly prone to this problem. This was about selling more bulbs and making more money.”. This data shows that at least for catastrophic failures (where the lamp ceases to emit light), extending lifetime means improving the power supplies. I just installed a ceiling light with color temp adjustment. I work in a group that designs LED drivers. – Yes You’ll get far better results. Don’t forget CRI, Color Rendering Index. Would it have made sense to pay a premium for such “million hour bulbs” at the turn of the 20th century if we had any inkling of the advances that would come in the next 117 years? I have various lamps around the room that collectively equal about 200 Watts worth of standard bulbs – but they’re all spot lights that illuminate a desk or an area of the floor. Nice color, no flicker, no RF noise, and still running. Need a POE network switch and standard Ethernet cable. Many LEDs have a constant current power supply which eliminates the problem; many do not because they are expensive, big, and heavy. They’re now adding heaters to LED traffic lights. Similar tech but different ‘needs’. This smells like an iffy solder joint or something of that nature…. Compare VW.com or Ford.com Vs: VW.uk & Ford.uk ! Current draw went from 300-350ma to 125ma per bulb. A constant current driver would be nice, since they have to deal with voltages from 12 to 14V and higher spikes. But it really does seem to be a crapshoot – you DON’T get what you pay for. Among the components found inside the bulbs, two stand out as life-limiters: the semiconductors and the electrolytic capacitors. That tape is pretty flimsy. They beat most LED products on the market on luminous efficacy (lm/W), except colored LEDs and some poor quality white LEDs that are actually light blue. I think Consumer Union (i.e. One assumes. I intend to investigate 48V power-over-Ethernet for distribution of power to LED lighting. I have had very bad experiences with a particular brand of 100W LED bulb (I’ve had about 12 failures in 15 installations, some installations more than once). Saving the Environment a Few Kilowatts at a Time, General Electric to Sell Its Incandescent Light Bulbs Division, LED Lighting is Here to Stay: Save Money with It, A Surprisingly Poignant Commercial about Light Bulbs, When and Where LED Bulbs Should NOT Be Used →. I guess it is because of module needing to have a small current available to detect if the lamp is physically turned on. In fact it seems that the last person to touch the light is the one that has to honor the warranty claim. That would have had to have been in the last 5-10 years, more likely in the last five, and I know for a fact there is nothing there about LED being required in 2016 code. I take CFLs apart, recycle the tubes, and repurpose the electronics. To my knowledge, there has never been a “special LED bulb” required by CA code. @Luke 4000k is good in a workshop type situation where a “whiter” light is appreciated, but without going all the way to “daylight” which seems way too bluish in most situations. That allows for the maximum amount of light to escape. Oh wait…. I have a 12 volt solar power system in my house with 6 12v deep cycle batteries and a 2000 watt inverter for my furnace and fridge. In June of 2010, I replaced twelve 65W incandescent PAR30 floodlight bulbs in our kitchen with LED equivalents. Lasted nearly a year so far with being on all night, every night. Then there’s one 73 Watt halogen bulb hanging off the ceiling. The cartel enforced production quotas and bulb lifetimes with a system of monetary fines, backed by the power of GE’s patent portfolio. Kelvin may not use the degree symbol, but Celcius does. Why does a 1980 Honda get 50 mpg, but a new Prius hybred only gets 43 mpg. I shall quietly leave the room now……. Then I suppose what kill let bulbs is the instability of the AC line with some nasty peak. Around here, most electricians refuse to supply LED fixtures and will simply install whatever fixture that someone else provides (customer, general contractor, etc) so that they are off the hook for warranty issues (replacement + time/effort to remove and replace the fixture and driver). Each LEDs drops around 8.5 V at 50 mA, so they contain 3 chips; like the GE Classic bulb, this one uses 48 total LED dice. You can also under-watt them. The minimum brightness of a dimmable led is usually very dim on decent quality ones (though it won’t get as orange/red as a filament so it will look different), but an incandescent will need significantly more voltage before it does anything, so a dimmer meant for incandescent, or an unadjusted LED dimmer will have the zero point set much too high. Run the emitters at 1/3rd the current that the bulb makers do. When we built our house five years ago, I put LEDs in every socket. Likewise, with the spectrum, they can vary a lot. “Incandescent lamps are manufactured according to British Standard BS 161 (IEC 60064), and the committee responsible for this includes representatives from a wide cross-section of interests such as government departments, professional institutions, organisations representing large users, electrical contractors and the lighting industry. with 160lm/w. 194 (WHITE) LED Bulb . they take about half a minute to brighten after turn on though. Most decent quality bulbs have very little flicker. The new $5 BR30 LED bulbs I just installed in the kitchen are amazingly bright and crisp: tests with a lux meter show the illuminance is more than 60% higher. I’ve never had a problem with it, running Cree, Philips, or Ikea bulbs. Filament bulbs don’t care – LEDs just fail unless there’s a transient voltage suppressor device in-line. The physics of filament bulbs are well known – you can calculate bulb efficiency and cost of electricity for yourself – and tales about everlasting bulbs with great efficiency fall into the same category as the 100 MPG carburetor. Interesting, I’ve been seeing LED bulb failures in one of my ceiling fans and I sort of assumed it was due to vibration. I have found the sweet spot for LED bulbs is the 60watt equivalent. And BTW, as far as bulb life, I have a half dozen BR40 100w 130V Sylvania bulbs, on old-school Lutron Skylark dimmers, that are used for hours, multiple times each day, that the bulbs have not been replaced since we moved in the house… 25 years ago! It was the energy utility. Quandary: Why There’s No Such Thing as “Built to Last”, Centennial Bulb (click to see a webcam of the lamp), https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve, http://lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Life.htm, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phoebus_cartel, https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/reviews/g164/incandescent-vs-compact-fluorescent-vs-led-ultimate-light-bulb-test/, https://corporate.homedepot.com/sites/default/files/2019_Responsibility%20Report.pdf, Active Camouflage Material Shows Promise At Hiding From Infrared Or Visual Detection, Amazon’s Custom T-Shirt May Rub You The Wrong Way. The issues here are above my paygrade, but aren’t LEDs much more sensitive to being turned on and off? How can such a thing pass any inspection is beyond me. I cringe at GE products but the glass LED bulb has got to be worst thing ever. The wire which connects to the “screw part” of the edison-based bulbs is, at least in the bulbs which I taken apart by now, almost never soldered. It’s been said that the only reason parents survive the toddler years of their offspring is because at that age. Was it all marketing hype? I’m extremely sensitive to LED flicker – I can see it in some car taillights, LED Christmas lights, cheap flashlights, and in magnetic-ballasted fluorescents. It lasts long and remains protected by the 'Waterproof IP67' technology. Lower wattage LED Lights last the longest… no surprise here, as low Watts = less heat which tend to affect lifetimes. Probably not the best engineered or built devices. Something else happens as phosphor-based white LEDs age: they change color. 194 LED Light bulb, Yorkim 6th Generation,12V Lights for 168, 2825,T10 5-SMD LED Bulb, Replacement and Reverse White Bulbs,Used For Signal Lights(Pack of 10) (T10, White) With a sophisticated chipset to protect long life and a whole lot of brightness, these lights from Yorkim stand for the current generation in LED modern technology. The LED has a highly linear response between current or power to light output. I recently did a lighting changeover in an apartment building, from CFL to LED. The LED keeps emitting blue and green even when dimmed, which makes it stick out in the darkness. It seems silly to have 3 wire 120VAC run over #12 Romex* wire to run an LED. The only fix seems to be to reduce the average current (to extend the LED lifetime). Besides, engineers worldwide help LED bulbs with aviation aluminum material. I estimate the total use at 15,000-20,000 hours. Contemporary house wiring (no to mention most installed dimmer switches) are laughably unsuitable for the widespread usage of LED lighting they see nowadays. My first LED bulb failed a few weeks ago, after just one year of operation, being lit less than 3hr/day. This was about selling more bulbs and making more money. which is well within their warranty time period. The first half dozen times a bulb burned out I took apart the bulb and every time it was the power supply that failed, not the LEDs. It gets complicated. More like 100-200 hours. I had to cut a number of them out when working for a university with thousands of students. The difference between passive cooling any semiconductor and not adequately is the difference between success and failure. For example, half of a set of 100,000-hour bulbs would still be in service after 91 years according to this calculation. I took a couple apart. Ummm…you have LM80 data to support this? Unfortunately, the brightest and most efficient are usually 5000k daylight bulbs that look very stark, and out of place in many situations. No, you still can’t get an incandescent bulb to push into that pin base, but who would want one? use motion sensors to dim, timers to dim, and again motion srnsors to turn on and off! Either bad soldering, heat, or line spikes. Hmmmmm, how does a pre-logical creature exhibit morality? Silently screaming. This particular 10-year claim means that the bulb can last for nearly 11,000 hours. Turn the spotlights off and the ceiling light on – the room looks bright. To see how this is done, I dissected three different A19 style bulbs: one each from the GE “Basic” and “Classic” lines (7,500 and 15,000 hours), and a Cree model offering a 25,000 hour life. Bang it on a table. The 12V ones can be pretty awful because of the voltage drop in the strip itself. When I sit down with clients, whether they’re building a new home or an office location, they want to know why my cost sheet includes such a huge number for lighting installation. I think, that’s a typical case of “you get what you pay for”. Either way, the ultimate cartel called “the government” ended up making the same regulations for the same effect, making the whole question moot. I had a similar argument with an uncle of mine once – he “hates those new LED bulbs” but we were having this conversation in my LED-lit living room and he was very surprised when I pointed that out to him. TBE Lighting UV LED Bulbs - 2 Pack - 9w Ultra Violet Black Light Bulbs - B22 Standard Bayonet Fitting - 395-400nm wavelength, Energy Saving Long Life LED A60 Bulb - 20,000Hrs Life Expectancy Also, aluminum PCBs can operate at higher temperatures, which doesn’t do the LEDs any good, but it does affect the whole heat problem. You are quite correct about a true comparison using an integrating sphere and only taking a single measurement from just below the light. The worst are often ones built from leds that are intended for indication, as opposed to illumination. Why aren’t you & I Allowed to purchase these models (Especially When they’re MADE HERE) ! Counter-intuitively lower numbers are “warmer”, with the bottom of what’s typically available in the 2700k range being very much like the colour of a low wattage incandescent, and 5000k being more of a daylight colour. That’s rather difficult without a real integrating sphere, because the individual LEDs cast their light in a narrower angle, and their combined beam pattern isn’t uniform. However, that last step, halving bulb lifetime, would increase brightness only between 11%-16%, while doubling sales. That’s because they can take the nominal power of the LED dies and print that on the box as the power rating of the bulb, even though each LED only runs half the time. In contrast, incandescent light bulbs will fizzle after about 1,000 hours of … The worse the color, the more lumens they can push out by tweaking the spectrum, because lumens are a subjective measure of brightness, not absolute emission power. There’s more to an LED bulb than just the LEDs. Mario Gianota has added a new log for Hackaday Clock A Day Entry: CMOS Logic Clock. Big changes in lighting technology mean that some of today’s lighting instruments last exponentially longer than the old incandescent bulbs that needed to be replaced on a regular basis. The only thing I can think of is the old code that said the “first” switch in a kitchen or bathroom has to be an energy-efficient light with one of the various non-Edison bases (I think more recently that changed to a percentage of the overall lighting needing to be high-efficiency, but also the non-Edison base requirement has also been relaxed and you just need to have high-efficiency bulbs in those “standard” Edison bulb sockets when the building is inspected). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve. Meanwhile, I bought a large box of store brand LEDs two years ago and have yet to see a single one of them go out. For “serious” lighting jobs I use at least 24V ones. The only challenge, really, is that they’re often subjected to temperatures in the 120 deg F range. Yet another thing that is not mentioned in the article or the comments is the bad smell that some bulbs emit, probably from the electronics. Besides I want to see a LED bulb bake a cake in an “easy bake oven”! Archived documents show that significant research was expended to devise bulbs that lasted their 1,000 appointed hours and no more. They actually have the electronics in the base, it’s just very compact and potted. I have 1000 watts of solar panels that have been up for over 10 years now. As an example… our Fluorescent LED replacement product consumes 14.7W total (LEDs and the driver) produces slightly more light than a 32W T-8 (assuming a ballast factor of 1 and so the consumption is over 32W). Or even 7,500? All the light comes out the sides little below, then the three terminal driver unsolders it self and out comes the magic smoke. Or, did we not know enough about LED aging to predict the true useful life of a bulb?”. They shine a near-UV light at a plastic diffuser that is filled with the same phosphors you might find in a CFL tube, which then produces the actual light. The best LED headlights are 80% more energy-efficient and they will keep your battery healthy. Red colors vanish first. Always with “efficiency”, “carbon emissions”, etc. b. I have on a shelf a bag of small disks intended to be inserted into the bulb socket before the bulb is inserted. Everybody would like to buy a light bulb which lasts at … Before it failed completely, it had been doing the on-off flicker every few seconds. Again, brightness increases were touted as the reason. Enough so that they can claim almost a million pounds a year of bulbs (2017) as “recycled”, but I don’t see good environmental impact stats on their website. I opened one LED bulb that started flickering and then died. That’s true of mature products, but the LED ‘bulb replacement’ market isn’t quite there yet. These bulbs last much longer than halogen bulbs, but still fall short of the impressive longevity offered by LED bulb. Often if you switch to a different brand or model, you’ll either have a minimum that’s quite bright, or not have any light until the knob is at 50%. Replacements were ridiculously expensive, of course, although they could be repaired easily. Featuring LED floodlight bulbs, LED track light bulbs and globe LED bulbs. Previous bulbs had burned for a much longer 1,500 – 2,500 hours. The age of A19 and similar bulb sockets will have to end in order to realize the full potential of LED lighting. There is usually a slight efficiency bonus on higher colour temp (more daylight/bluish) LEDs, but filling your house with 4000-5000k bulbs based on efficiency alone makes it feel like you’re at the supermarket, not at home. The goal is to improve lighting and energy efficiency on the actual work areas which tend to be downward from the fixture and not the walls or the ceiling. Don’t start on the CFLs Those bastards.. So if we were to have the bulb on for eight hours every day (two hours in the morning and six hours in the evening, for instance—possibly longer on the weekends), this means that it would only last shy of three and a … On the driver PCB is a bridge rectifier, an electrolytic capacitor again rated for 105°C, and an SOIC-8 IC. I do same stuff but in europe. Both of these components suffer from a failure rate that is a strong function of temperature. You would need two 60 W 1000 hour bulbs to match the lifetime and light output, but the total price would now be less at 12.70 dollars. The lowest dimming level tends to depend on the quality of the driver, ranting from just 1/10th power to full, smooth dimming to black. The surge failure IS what makes most incandescent lamps fail at turn-on, but this isn’t as big a factor as you would think. Gets rid of a whole bunch of wall warts. So far, they’ve run a couple years no problem. We use 1 watt task lights now instead of 60 watt table lights. Some reviews said “they all burned out quick”. These bulbs were advertised with a 30,000 hour lifetime. :-(, Generally dice don’t die, but a crooked dice game might end in someone’s death! It … >” in order to have an apples to apples comparison.”. Oh, and a bridge rectifier. Wet Location LED Bulbs - A wet location UL rating means these LED light bulbs can be used in humid indoor areas or outdoors where water may drop or flow against the bulb or fixture. I grow with house hold leds I use use a couple filament Leds and six 1600lm 16w 100w eq the filament leds 50% failed in a month but have great spectrum for seedlings and the 100w got really hot so after a year I took them apart and installed heat sinks with fans which only draw 12v .1A and its been running for another year to date I would say the the first year I lost 15% of the lumens and the second year they lost 5% more heat is definitely a killer in 100w house leds oh ya my lights run 24/7 so they ultimately never get rest but are well cooled. Try a TCP lamp or a Topaz lamp. Point being that in order to light up a _room_ you want the light onto the walls and ceiling as well to create diffuse light that doesn’t cast shadows. You just walk in, head towards the customer service desk, find the recycle bins, put your bulb in a bag, and place it in the bin. If they just quit, it’s not LED wearout; the driver has fried. However, that last step, halving bulb lifetime, would increase brightness only between 11%-16%, while doubling sales. Its a no brainer that they cost less in usage/consumption for the end user, but seems to be a bit of a throw-away, and part for part (environmentally) compared to a tungsten filament they must a have much larger carbon footprint. The incandescent filament has a highly nonlinear response curve. I seen it happen with “quality ones” as well. So, what happened to those 100,000 hour residential LED bulbs? I doubt the phosphor or argon in fluorescents gets recycled. Ones designed for 12-48VDC arena tend more towards LED failure roughly 75%. – No The two longer-lived bulbs use twice as many packages to carry approximately the same number of LED dice as the GE Basic lamp, decreasing thermal resistance to their respective heatsinks, and presumably reducing their temperature. Does it rattle? FWIW, get high-CRI LED strips. It is maintained by the Livermore-Pleasanton Fire Department. That can be quite variable. Any discussion of light bulb lifetime would be incomplete without mention of the Phoebus cartel, an international organization formed in 1924 by the world’s leading light bulb manufacturers to manipulate the bulb market. If one shorts, no problem, the light is just reduced. I’ve also noticed that along with 100,000 hour claimed lifetimes disappearing, so have the massive cast-aluminum heat sinks earlier LED bulbs used. Lux-meter shows higher brightness for same wattage – consumer is happy and thinks they got more for the money. The level is set either with an ‘analog’ 10V system (sink or source), 110V phase-cut dimming just for control, some standard electronic bus like DALI or DMX, a proprietary system like Lutron, or, proprietary wireless systems. I just found out I have to take the wheels off my 08 Fit to replace a burned out headlight. Outrageous. Many people who don’t know any better will buy the bulb that’s brightest and most efficient (Biggest numbers on the box). My name is wim , i am in the led field for over 23 year now , and what is stated is impossible. I have to say as a prolific dump diver and hoarder it does make me think that buying a tungsten bulb produces less waste, even if I pay more for my (hydroelectric) power than a LED bulb, even if I turn off lights religiously…. The LED can handle that as long as the heat is flowing away from the element, but typical power supply components are not fans of that much heat over long periods of time. Another thing to keep in mind, is that LEDs come in different colour temperatures. Mine (ebay) did not last long. This GE bulb has a plastic dome covering a circular aluminum PCB which carries eight LED packages and the driver electronics. The one *without*.. you’d be blessed to make it passed boot screen. It costs less than 65 cents a tube but you have to FIND a waste management firm that will take them, then you have to drive there and back. This is not spam, check us out at www .uslightinggroup.com. All of an LED’s output is visible (or UV) so if it’s rated to, say, an amp, it’ll visibly glow at a hundred microamps. glass, argon, phosphor, alumin[i]um rings at each end, brass contacts, a tiny bit of tungsten, and a drop of mercury. If light gets to it, that add “noise”. I bought a fixture from Lowes which had a CC driver, but the LEDs were wired in series-parallel. The little cube of aluminum PCB is cute, but it doesn’t seem to be thermally connected to anything. life time 190.000 h ?? Exactly same bulbs directly plugged on AC die between 1.5 and 2 years. E.G. Or, did we not know enough about LED aging to predict the true useful life of a bulb? If you think it from the sustainability point of view, would it be better to produce fully recycleable product lasting over 100 years or 100 products containing hazardous waste and is almost non-recycleable that lasts only one year? In fact, the circuit looks like it was taken directly from the SM2082D datasheet. let me say that 160lm/w is already on the market for almost 3 year , and that the commercial lm/w at max is now 220lm/w. Inside, a larger aluminum PCB holds (16) 3.5 x 2.8 mm LED packages. For the manufacturing facilities to remain in place to serve both current consumer, there has to be a predictable failure and cash flow fate. So with this lighting system the LEDs I have will last a heck of a lot longer. The US Department of Energy (DoE)’s solid-state lighting program supports research and development of LED technologies, and their website contains volumes of data on LED lighting systems. Or let’s just take my room for an example. In fact to minimise customer complaints, the standard filament with a declared life of 1000 hours typically has an average design life of 1200 hours.” http://lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Life.htm. It’s coupling to the air in the bulb, and through the bulb to the outside air. I have 20 or so 6W-Spots from a German manufacturer in my Workshop which sport “made in EU” on their casing. I was worried it will be not really economical because of the batteries…guess what – not only power bill went down, motion sensing kept LED’s on for short enough batteries needed to be recharged just once per year… Not to mention fact those sources are autonomous and mobile caused ppl to carry them to just mosty used places, like iluminating key hole or car driveway.